Possible reasons why your Refrigerator or Freezer is not functioning correctly
Problems with your refrigerator or freezer can cost more than most appliances, simply because of the food you could lose if it doesn't stay cool. As soon as you realize there may be something going on with your refrigerator, please take a look at the below troubleshooting tips. They are effective for almost any appliance brand, including Kenmore, Frigidaire and Bosch.
Refrigerator Warm
Refrigerator not plugged in.
No voltage at outlet. Measure the voltage (usually 120v) at the outlet and make sure the circuit breaker is not tripped.
Excess lint built up on condenser. Brush (using a condenser brush) and vacuum as needed.
Condenser fan motor (the one underneath) not running. Make sure condenser fan motor is running. If not, replace it even if it starts running when you start it off by hand.
Defrost timer stuck in defrost mode. Advance timer and see if compressor starts. If compressor starts and temperature starts to pull down, replace the timer before your evaporator ices up.
Evaporator fan motor not running. Open your freezer and see if you hear the fan motor running (on some models you need to hold down the door switch to run the fan). If not, replace the fan motor.
Burned out defrost heater in freezer. Run continuity test on both ends of heater or energize heater and run amperage test. Defrost problems are usually indicated by excess buildup of frost on back wall or bottom of freezer compartment.
Open defrost thermostat. Run continuity test on defrost thermostat.
Cold control is open. Run continuity test (refrigerator unplugged) or place jumper wire across the two wires going to the cold control (refrigerator plugged in).
Compressor not starting. This is the dreaded "hummm...CLICK" sometimes heard when a compressor can't start.
Burned out start relay. Test the start relay for continuity. The newer solid state relays are especially bad for "frying" and thus not energizing the compressor motor's start winding. The older wire-wound start relays are more reliable but still subject to damage.
Compressor motor run or start winding open. Check for continuity in the compressor motor's start and run windings. These should measure on the order of single digit ohms with the start winding measuring slightly higher resistance.
Current leakage from compressor motor winding to ground. Measure the mega ohm resistance from one of the motor winding terminals to ground. You need to use a special instrument called a mega ohm meter. Do not use a standard multimeter for this test, even if it reads in the mega ohm range, because it doesn't read high enough to tell you anything. A low mega ohm reading means there is current leakage from the motor winding to ground, usually caused by the motor winding insulation having been burned off--the compressor must be replaced.
Problem in sealed system (leak, plugged capillary tube, non-condensibles). Usually not worth repairing, especially on lower end refrigerators.
Refrigerator Not Cold Enough
Complete the "Refrigerator Warm" checks.
Light stays on inside compartment. Replace light switch.
Door left ajar. Check door closing and product positioning.
Excessive Sweating in Fresh Food Compartment
Bad gaskets. Check for tight seal all the way around with the door closed.
Door left ajar. Check door closing and product positioning.
Excessive Frosting in Freezer
Faulty defrosting system. Check defrost timer, defrost heater, and defrost thermostat to locate faulty component.
Newer refrigerators may have an adaptive defrost control board instead of a defrost timer.
Evaporator fan motor not running. Open freezer door and see if you hear the fan motor running (on some models you need to hold down the door switch to run the fan). If not, replace the fan motor.
Refrigerator Leaks Water
Plugged defrost drain opening or drain hose. Locate the end of the drain hose that feeds the condensate drip pan underneath the refrigerator. If the drip pan is bone dry, it's a sure sign that the drain opening or drain hose is clogged. Trace the drain hose back to see where it pick of the condensate in the refrigerator cabinet. Inspect the drain opening or drip cup. In many cases, this drain port is plugged with ice or food debris. Occasionally, the obstruction will be in the drain tube itself. Test by blowing on one end of the drain tube. Air should flow freely. If not, a Black and Decker Inflator (powered by two Versa pak batteries) properly connected to one end of the drain tube will clear the obstruction.
Bad gaskets. Check for tight seal all the way around with the door closed.
Possible reasons why your Microwave Oven is not functioning correctly
Use extreme caution when working on microwave ovens! Even when unplugged, the high voltage capacitor can store up to 2,000 volts just waiting to discharge into your body. Discharge the capacitor before doing anything else inside the box!
Oven Completely Dead
Circuit breaker tripped.
Blown fuse. Run continuity check and replace with exact replacement.
Defective control board. Test for power going to board. If exists, problem lies on board somewhere. On the GE/Hotpoint using the "smart-board," it is sometimes possible to locate a bad soldering connection on the board that can be repaired, restoring function to the board. Otherwise the entire board must be replaced.
Microwave Appears to Work But No Heat
Defective magnetron. Ohm test between the magnetron terminals, should be less than 3 ohms. Test from magnetron terminal to ground, should be open.
Defective HV capacitor. Test with capacitor meter or ohm meter.
Defective control board. Test for power going to board. If exists, problem lies on board somewhere.
HV Rectifier is shorted or open. Test forward and reverse bias with a mega ohmmeter. If continuity in both directions, rectifier is shorted, replace. If no continuity in either direction, rectifier is open, replace.
Oven Sparks While in Use
Grease accumulated on oven cavity ceiling (usually accumulates at waveguide cover) which sparks during use. Clean grease and wash waveguide cover.
Microwave stirrer inoperative due to either defective stirrer motor, defective fan motor (which drives the stirrer), or broken stirrer belt, depending on how unit is designed. Without the stirrer, microwave energy will concentrate on one part of the oven and cause burning, sparking, etc.
HV Rectifier is shorted or open. Test forward and reverse bias with a mega ohmmeter. If continuity in both directions, rectifier is shorted, replace. If no continuity in either direction, rectifier is open, replace.
Possible reasons why your Ice Maker is not functioning correctly
Most ice-makers are one of two types: The flex tray (square cubes made with a plastic tray) and the crescent cube ice-maker. Flex tray ice-makers also have the refrigerator's defrost timer built into it and are most commonly seen in Whirlpool/Kenmore refrigerators. Crescent cube ice-makers are all made by Whirlpool and used in all other brands. It is important to determine the type of ice-maker before proceeding with diagnostics.
No Ice
Freezer too warm. Must be below 17ºF before ice-maker will operate.
Ice-maker timing gear broken or stripped (old style crescent cube ice-maker). The flex tray ice-maker also uses a timing gear (of a different type) which can strip out and cause this problem. Inspect and replace as needed.
Water switch defective (older Whirlpool-style units).
Ice-maker module head defective (newer crescent cube ice-maker). Jump T to H to activate ice-maker and observe harvest cycle. Measure for 120v at the fill valve which should appear momentarily toward the end of the harvest cycle. If valve never gets the 120v, it'll never open to let water in. Replace the module (on the modular crescent cube ice-makers) or the water micro-switch (on the older crescent cube ice-makers).
Water inlet valve open. Test coil continuity with ohm meter.
Water fill spout in freezer> plugged with ice, usually indicating a leaky water valve. Clear ice plug and replace valve. Install in-line filter just before valve to protect it from future damage.
Saddle valve used to source water for the ice-maker line is plugged with sediment. Test by disconnecting water line at inlet valve. If no water, and saddle valve is open, replace saddle valve.
Leaks Inside Freezer
Leaking ejector seal kit in outdated and inferior (GE-made) ice-maker. Replace ice-maker with modern crescent cube design.
Reduce ice-maker fill to reduce cube size and fill volume. Adjustment on side of module head.
Leaking water inlet valve evidenced by frozen leak originating from fill spout and spilling over side of ice-maker.
Objectionable Taste, Odor or Color in Ice Cubes
Install in-line water filter in icemaker water line just before the fill valve. Replace annually.
Possible reasons why your Dishwasher is not functioning correctly
Some dishwasher designs use a pump-motor assembly where the pump and motor are built (and replaced) together as a unit. In this design, the pump is external to the dishwasher tub. Other dishwashers designs have a separate motor (external) connected to an internal pump (located just below the spray arms inside the tub. Each design has advantages and disadvantages.
Pump-motor assembly units usually do not develop leaks from the tub gasket, but are prone to leakage from the pump itself. In this case, the entire pump-motor assembly must be replaced.
Units with a separate motor are prone to leakage from the main tub-to-motor gasket. If the leakage continues for long, the motor bearings will rust and the motor must be changed out. Older Kitchen-Aids and lower end Whirlpool/Kenmores are subject to this failure.
Leaks
Using too much soap. Run dishwasher without soap and see if leak still occurs. If not, then reduce soap usage or change soaps altogether.
Worn door gasket. Test by operating dishwasher and see if leak stops while pushing on the door.
Worn tub-to-motor gasket. Remove motor and replace gasket.
Debris caught in spray arm. Remove spray arm and clean out with water and compressed air.
Worn or split spray arm hub assembly (especially on GE and Hotpoint).
Split spray arm. Replace.
No Pump-out
Worn drain impeller on models without a drain solenoid. Most common to rebuild Kitchen-Aid and old DM pumps.
Defective drain solenoid on units so equipped. Most common on GE/Hotpoint dishwashers.
Clogged drain line, usually at the disposal inlet connection if dishwasher connects there.
No Water Into Dishwasher
Defective water inlet solenoid. Run ohms check, should be 20 to 50 ohms. If electrically bad, it'll read open. Valves can also fail due to sediment damage and freezing damage. Be sure to test valve both electrically and mechanically to determine its status. Valve may check good on an ohms test but may fail after repeated activations due to fatigue. Check using a test cord to repeatedly energize and d-energize the valve.
Defective overflow float switch. Test continuity.
Overflow float switch stuck or debris caught under float preventing it from closing the float switch and energizing the fill valve. Most common in Kitchen-Aids.
Timer not energizing water fill circuit. Live test using volt meter and checking for presence of 120v at appropriate pin of the timer.
Runs Too Long
Defective thermostat. This problem will become apparent with the water heat option selected. Check by running the dishwasher with this option de-selected and see if it proceeds normally through the cycle.
Timer not advancing through cycle.
Hums Then Shuts Off
Motor is seized. Replace motor.
Doesn't Clean Dishes Well
Worn pump-motor assembly (GE/Hotpoint) or worn wash impeller (depending on design). Test by placing a glass upright in upper rack with full charge of water in the basin. Run dishwasher for 30 seconds. Glass should fill up. If not, replace pump-motor assembly or wash impeller.
Debris caught in spray arm holes. Remove spray arm and clean out with water and compressed air.
Heating element burned out. Check water temp during wash--should read between 130 to 140 F.
Insufficient water fill in basin. In most models, proper fill level is just up to the heating element. Much less than this will result in poor cleaning.
Glassware is Cloudy
Etching due to rinsing dishes prior to loading. Load dishes with food soils still on.
Hardness deposits. Test by soaking cloudy glass item in vinegar for one minute. If cloudiness goes away, have water softener installed or serviced.